Reunion in Morehead City and Stuck in Wrightsville Beach

As we pulled in to the dock at Morehead City on Saturday after a long but beautiful day on the water we were greeted by a grinning, friendly familiar face - Norm from Tide Hiker was there to help us with our lines. What a great and always welcome sight that was!! After a quick stow of our gear and covering of the instruments, we walked down the dock for a quick cold beer with Norm and Vicki who had pulled in a day ahead of us. Soon thereafter we walked over to see Lynnie and Rick on Rickshaw - Rickshaw has had quite the facelift with new canvas and an enclosed flybridge and is looking amazing (Lynnie and Rick didn't look too bad either!!)

It was great to see everyone again and as we relaxed and laughed over drinks and apps, we called Bob and Stephanie of September Song who are at their home dock in GA (anxiously awaiting some of their delinquent cruising friends who are way too late getting south!!!) We then headed out to get some pizza across the way - I've never seen pizza disappear that fast before!!!

Doug and I felt like we were back in high school for awhile there as we were drinking Blue Moons out of mason jars!!! (altho in high school it certainly wasn't Blue Moon - it was whatever we could get usually from our parents liquor cabinet or even Boone's Farm - yes admit it, we all drank it!!) While getting together with old friends is always great - this pseudo Bahamas reunion was something special!! We plan to head south with Tide Hiker for a few days but don't know when we'll see Rickshaw again so it was tough to say goodbye the next morning (we left only after Norm had walked over some fried pizza to Gypsies for breakfast - everyone had raved about it and they were right - YUM!) Hopefully we'll see those guys soon - maybe this winter down in the Keys even if by land yacht!!

Sunday we set out with Tide Hiker down through Bogue Sound to an anchorage in Mile Hammock Bay. The trip along the Sound is fairly narrow but beautiful with lots of sandy patches for pelicans, terns, cormorants and egrets to congregate on and sand dunes interspersed with the inlets out to the ocean that can be so treacherous for us where the shoals build up!!

We saw several shrimp boats (one of the first signs we're in the South!!)

and our first pod of dolphins on this southbound trip - we had a group of very playful guys dancing and jumping beside Gypsies in and out of our bow wake for quite awhile until some yahoo flew by us in his camo rent a wreck boat and scared them all away!

We passed through the firing range at Camp LeJeune which thankfully was not active but got to see all the overturned tanks and trucks along the waterway that are used for firing practice.

We headed through the Onslow Beach Swing Bridge which for once was working - we must be living right (although Norm had a slight timing faux pas and missed our opening due to a five minute watch discrepancy.....hate it when that happens)!

We met back up with them in our anchorage at Mile Hammock Bay along with about 30 other boats all headed South!! We sat topsides enjoying the mild weather for a change and were treated to an absolutely amazing sunset as we watched more and more boats fill up our by now shrinking anchorage!!


The next day we let all the sailboats climb over each other to head out first while we enjoyed some breakfast and then leisurely headed out onto the ICW just in time to miss the start of ordinance practice at Camp LeJeune - YIKES!!! We heard the mortar rounds and cannons for miles - very glad we left when we did. After being assured Norm's watch was fixed, Tide Hiker led the way down to Wrightsville Beach through a number of bridges - because of our speed (or lack thereof) it's pretty hard to time a series of bridges with the current so we ended up cooling our heels and waiting around for several of them but Vicki rocked when she talked the Wrightsville Beach bridge tender into holding the bridge open for us - we would have had to wait a whole hour if we missed it!!! This stretch of the ICW is complete with lots of lawn art (do you think the giraffe really increases the salability of this home? if so, maybe we need one for our house in Maine),

wildlife and interesting homes like the shocking pink house we passed which is reported to be the home of a madam of ill repute and home to some pretty impressive swinging parties (too bad we had no time to stop!!!)

The Wrightsville Beach bridge was somewhat of a clusterf___ as there were close to 15 sailboats all waiting to go through and on the other side was a temporarily broken down homemade houseboat - in the middle of a very narrow stretch of water with marinas and large boats on either side!!!

Not wanting to ride up on top of Tide Hiker we had to throw the engines in reverse after running full out to make the bridge for the prior 15 minutes - not pretty!! Anyways, we all successfully maneuvered the bridge and the Earth Ball Green House Abode

and headed up Motts Channel to our anchorage for the night (along with most of those sailboats who of course took all the prime anchoring real estate since we didn't have enough time to pass them - ugh!)

What should have been a fun afternoon in Wrightsville Beach was not to be - unfortunately just as we pulled in and started backing down on our anchor to set it, the starboard alternator seized up and started spewing smoke in the engine room!!! We immediately shut down the engine - luckily we got the anchor set well because the wind was picking up and the forecast was calling for pretty bad weather over the next several days!! Doug knew what it was right away as we had the same thing happen to our port alternator when we were in the Bahamas so he quickly jumped online and called to order a replacement. Unfortunately it would be a couple days to ship - so we are currently stuck in Wrightsville Beach on anchor awaiting the part. Hopefully it should be here on Thursday in time for Doug to put it in so we can be on the road and headed to Myrtle Beach by Friday. We finally convinced Tide Hiker yesterday to head on without us after their repeated offers to sit with us and help - thanks for the offers guys but we'll be up and running again soon hopefully and we'll see you again maybe in Charleston!!!

Not to waste a day just sitting around, we dropped the dink and headed into Wrightsville Beach for a little exploring - we hit the beach although it wasn't nearly as warm or as sunny as it was the last time we were here!!!

In fact it was very overcast and threatening to rain at any moment. We checked out all the surf shops in search of new tevas since I've nearly worn out my two pair but was unsuccessful in that mission - oh well it's not a crisis yet!! We crossed the bridge to at least get some exercise and of course it was when we were on the other side away from town that the skies decided to open up in biblical proportions. Out came our slickers which gave us some relief although we judiciously decided our best bet would be to hit a local joint to get out of the rain - we found Jerry Allens Sports Bar offering $2.50 cheeseburgers and $2 beers - loving it!!

We sat outside under a little roof with some other crazies sipping cold beers, watching the rain stream down and enjoying a juicy burger - when life throws you rain, embrace it we always say...and find the nearest burger/beer joint!!!

Well, it's been pouring rain ever since we left Jerry Allens - seriously how is there more water left up there?? But supposedly they are calling for even more rain through at least Thursday evening - the boat kitties are loving life!!!

I guess if we have to be stuck waiting on the alternator, the fact that the weather sucks (and we probably wouldn't have been moving south anyways) doesn't really bother us all that much. We just heard that our alternator actually shipped Monday evening so should be in today - one of the local marinas agreed to accept it for us (the only problem is that we have to dinghy over to get it...guess we're going to get wet!!!) Depending on when it gets here, maybe we'll get out of here by tomorrow....keep you posted!! Meanwhile we are being entertained by a local pod of dolphins who keep circling our boat doing flips and spins - although they appear to be camera shy showing me only their tails...think they're trying to tell me something??


Click here to see our anchorage in Wrightsville Beach.

Click here to see a map of all the places we have stopped on the ICW this southbound trip.

Mother Nature Giveth and Mother Nature Taketh...

We awoke bright and early yesterday morning to the most glorious sight - the sun was just cresting the horizon, a hazy fog was seeping up from the waters of Broad Creek and the vegetation along the creek banks was silvery as if covered in frost.




Yes it was 6:00 AM (that is in the morning!!) and yes it was really, really cold out (witness the frost) but somehow the beauty of the morning made up for all that - almost made up for it Doug just chimed in!! Not being sure what exactly was taking our breath away (the beauty surrounding us or the friggin' cold), we opted to think it was the scenery - that's us, always looking on the positive side of things!!! Seriously though, there is something about nature first thing in the morning when everything around you is just starting to stir that is truly special - yesterday morning was one of those spellbinding mornings when you realize that you alone are privileged to be witnessing such an amazing scene. Gradually the birds, fish and creek critters started to wake and we heard the normal creek sounds intrude - but for those few precious moments we had the stillness and beauty all to ourselves.

And then it was time to haul anchor and move our butts out onto the waterways to head south.

Pulling Anchor in Broad Creek

We crossed the Albemarle Sound before the winds had a chance to kick up much of a sea although towards the end of the crossing, things were starting to get interesting. Glad we got an early start!! There was much radio chatter regarding a tricky spot heading into the Alligator River across the Sound where a number of boats had recently gone aground - not really sure how since we never saw less than 9 feet the whole way, unless they weren't paying attention to the markers which you really do need to watch out for since they zig zag you through the tight spot. We approached the Alligator River Swing Bridge well behind two sailboats (they had started across the Sound well before us and we were catching them - no they didn't pass us!!) but the bridge tender was very cool and held the bridge for us to catch up.

Alligator River Bridge Closes After We Pass Through

We told him we gave it everything (all 9 knots Gypsies had!) and really appreciated the hold - although I'm sure the trucks, buses and cars waiting on the bridge were not all that happy!! There were a whole group of seagulls, terns and pelicans sitting on the bridge to greet us as we went through - what a great welcome!!

Birds on the Aligator River Bridge

The long stretch down the Alligator River was relatively uneventful except we did catch and pass those two sailboats - whew!! Oh yeah and we had two fighter jets doing loops around us for kicks I guess - just when I thought they were gone, the sonic boom would reach me letting me know they had circled around in back of us. Guess those shorts will need to be laundered - Doug got a couple great shots of them so now I guess they'll be after us in earnest!!

Fighter Jet Buzzes Gypsies' Tower

We then headed into the very narrow 20 mile stretch of the Alligator River/Pungo River Canal being trailed by about 9 or 10 power boats. Now you have to understand that this is a really narrow stretch of water with tree stumps, logs, fallen trees and deadheads lining each side of the bank - not a great place for two large boats to be side by side!!

Alligator River - Pungo River Canal

One by one they seemed to catch up to us and wanted to pass - most did it the right way with a call on the radio and a slow pass, although one just laid on his horn and passed within about a foot of us (butthead!!) But each time one of them wanted to pass, we had to slow down so they could give us a slow pass and not wake us - tired of this about mid-canal, I just called out and told the rest of them to pass us now while I had slowed down or forever hold their peace. Several boats as well as a couple seagulls took me up on the offer!! OK we don't go too fast but we go in comfort!! As always we had some fun radio conversations with several of them and hope our paths cross again down the waterways! One boat even asked if there was someone named Snake aboard (had he seen Doug's hair??) - if you're a true Parrothead, you'll understand the reference...

About an hour away from the end of the Canal, the wind started to really pick up and the sun started to fade, so what had started as a beautiful day on the water rapidly became not as much fun. By the time we reached the Pungo River, we had an all out gale going but we still had about an hour and a half to go to get to Belhaven. With my contacts plastered to my eyeballs from the wind, we donned yet another sweatshirt and made the best of it - we had Scotty, Kenny and the Barefoot Man blaring from our ipod so we were thinking sun even if we weren't feeling it!! After watching boat after boat pull off into Dowry Creek Marina, we finally reached Belhaven only to realize that with the howling NW winds racing down the channel, our thoughts of anchoring there didn't look so good anymore. We didn't relish a night of waves slamming into the bow making the inside of the boat sound like a bowling alley nor the evening of anxiety high winds create. So we decided to forego Belhaven and try around the corner in Pungo Creek - voila, once we got up into the creek and tucked up against the northern shore, the trees blocked most of the wind and we dropped the hook for a relatively peaceful evening. It was pizza night so Doug was a happy boy!!

Puss and Boots are Happy the Day is Over

This morning we woke to a bright and sunny day - but boy is it cold!!! I got up with the boat kitties early to check the weather but soon crawled back under the covers along with Bootsie!! The wind was still kicking out on the Pamlico and Neuse Rivers which we have to cross to get to our next destination (20-25 knots) - neither of those bodies of water do you really want to cross with that kind of wind. So once again thanks to Mother Nature we are having a "chill day" - the kitties LOVE her!! Although the wind has switched around to the N/NE and it has picked up somewhat in our anchorage, we are sitting tight and plan to spend a quiet, restful day. For tomorrow we head to Morehead City, NC to meet up with Rickshaw (Lynnie and Rick) and Tide Hiker (Vicki and Norm) to PARTY! We will have about a 70 mile run but we plan on getting up around 6:00 am and the weather forecast looks great, so we're keeping our fingers crossed for a nice day so we can be sipping a sundowner G&T with our friends by about 5:00 pm tomorrow!!!!

Click here to see our anchorage in Pungo Creek.

And Another State Down...

We're FINALLY heading South again - not as fast as we had hoped but at least we are making progress - today we crossed the VA/NC state line - yippeeeee!! We've really been taking it on the nose from Mother Nature - literally - we had to sit out a day of nasty weather when we were in Solomons Island and then we had two enforced "chill days" while we were in Portsmouth, VA. We had a miserable run down the Bay on Saturday with the weather but finally we got tied up to a dock at a great little family run marina (Portsmouth Boating Center) to ride out the rest of the nastiness - it was cold and rainy and windy like you read about!!! We had 20-30 knots for 3 days!!! Each morning we agonized over whether we should tough it out or sit tight and wait for better weather (which we knew was the smart thing to do but we just want to get south NOW!!) I know this will be unbelievable to some, but we made the smart decision and hunkered down in Portsmouth to wait out Mother Nature's wrath. Wendy and Paul at the marina had a lot to do with it - they offered to drive us to and back from the local sports bar Roger Browns on Sunday so we could watch football - now that is way above and beyond the call of duty for a dockmaster - thanks tons guys!! We had a great afternoon belly up to the bar downing a few cold Coors Lites and some tasty (but incredibly spicy) Thai wings despite the fact our Patriots had a bye week - we contented ourselves routing for everyone that could help the Pats in the standings and cheering for everyone that was playing against a NY team (not that we're biased or anything). The bar was rocking as it is the only real sports bar in town and with all the volumes up on all 30 TVs we actually almost felt like we were at each and every game...cool joint!!

Beers, Apps and FOOTBALL at Roger Browns

Monday was just as miserable if not more so despite a forecast that had called for better weather - just teasing us I guess. Once again we made the decision to hunker down since the canvas on the boat next to us was all but ripping off - good call again (but now we were chomping at the bit to turn Gypsies loose on the ICW). To dull our pain, Paul connected us up with cable so we could watch a little ESPN and the Monday Night Football game - WOW - watching football in the comfort of our own home - call me spoiled!! While we made the best of our time in Portsmouth, the boat kitties flat out LOVED it - they got to cuddle with mom and dad under blankets for days!!! Kitty nirvana!!

Boat Kitties Try to Get as Close to Mom as They Can

We woke on Tuesday to something we haven't seen in such a long time - the sun!!

The Sun Shines Over Portsmouth Boating Center

Marker 2 - First Red Marker on the ICW

Along with every other snowbird getting a late start south, we headed out at first light wanting to make tracks while we could knowing we also had to contend with all the bridges in the Norfolk stretch of the ICW.

The Bridges of Norfolk

The Norfolk/Portsmouth area is not only a major commercial port but it is one of the largest naval stations in the world and the ICW runs right through all of it so we had a front row seat. We passed huge naval air craft carriers

Aircraft Carrier

The Dwight D Eisenhower (CVN-69) Gets Some Work Done

and destroyers in dry dock which are really very cool to see up close - we also passed lots of tugs with barges and container ships headed in to off-loading piers

Cargo Ships Offloading

(you should see the size of those cranes - makes our davit look downright tiny!!)

Cranes

Now That's a Crane!

And then came the dreaded bridges.....but they turned out to be not so bad!! One of the really bad bridges that has screwed with us in the past by being locked in the down position has been permanently removed pending a new 65 foot bridge, the several railroad bridges were in the up position and the Gilmerton bridge we only had to wait for about 10 minutes - we all looked like the pied piper caravan going through the bridges - us and 20 of our newest bestest boat friends!

The Parade of Boats

Tammy Navigates the Steel Bridge

Yet Another Bridge and Caravan

So we were golden, right??? WRONG!! As we were coming up to the one lock on the VA Cut of the ICW (not to be confused with the Dismal Swamp cut), the Great Bridge Lock, we hear the lock tender over the radio tell us all that the lock is closed because of the high tide - HUH???? You have got to be kidding me...but no, he wasn't - there apparently was an exceptionally high tide so the lock was closed until further notice. Now picture this - 18 boats all within about 20 feet of each other with no place to tie up to wait. Most of us just dropped the hook where we sat, praying the anchor would set a little since we really couldn't back down on the anchor given the lack of maneuvering room and tried to make the best of it - at least the sun was out and it was finally warm!!! So much for making tracks!!

Boats Anchored Waiting for the Lock to Re-open

When we were finally able to get through the lock, we decided after checking out the weather to just tie up at the free dock in Great Bridge for the night - the next day was supposed to be back to 20-25 knots of wind so we knew we wouldn't be crossing the Albemarle Sound in that.

The Great Bridge Lock was Full

Tammy, the Lock Linehandler

The Lock Water Level Drops About 3 Feet

We had a great afternoon sitting out on the front of Gypsies in the sun reading, having a few coldies and waving at the boats going through the bridge.

Sitting Out on the Bow Enjoying the Sun

Boats Going Through Great Bridge

One advantage of docking was we were able to get out of the cluster f_ck of boats we had been in all the way since the start of the ICW. After that kind of a day, we of course had to treat ourselves to Mexican food at 3 Amigos - we didn't make any penny imprints under the bridge like last time since it just wasn't the same without Bob and Stephanie!!! After all, we don't want to go to jail by ourselves!!!

This morning we hit the Great Bridge right at 8:00 am since we couldn't get through the next bridge until 8:30 - we laughed at the big Sea Ray that went through at the 7 am opening who was still sitting there waiting for the Steel Bridge to open when we motored up (should've read the guidebook big boy!!!) Despite lots of wind, we made tracks (along with another caravan of boats!) through a very narrow stretch of the ICW lined with fallen trees, stumps and deadheads (logs or stumps that stick out of the water but extend down and could really cause you to have a bad day as they rip into your boat!!!)

Deadheads Along the ICW

Avoiding Deadheads in the ICW

down to Broad Creek where we are anchored for the night in a very protected little place - the wind has died down but it's still downright cold!!! To give you a sense of how badly we want to get south, Doug forfeited stopping in Coinjock for prime rib today so we could make an extra 15 miles south - now that is hardcore!!! Tomorrow morning the winds are supposed to be light (we're keeping our fingers crossed as the forecasts have been changing constantly) so we plan on being up at 6:00 am (thanks to the end of daylight savings time it is lighter earlier - yeah thanks a lot!!!) to cross the Albemarle Sound. Since the Sound is so shallow it can get really nasty even in 10-15 knot winds - we've had enough of nasty for a little while so we're really hoping for a nice calm (and warm - had to throw that one in) day!!! The goal is to get to somewhere around Belhaven, NC - we'll keep you posted!!

Click here to see our anchorage in Broad Creek.